Day 4,Royal guesthouse

When the bus drove into Mandalay province, passengers were all waken up to get off to pass ceremonial security checks by showing their identities; Since nobody asked me to do that, I stretched out a little bit but the cold made me jump back onto the bus immediately. I didn't do the check as well as several other locals.

And then around 6:30 in the morning, I was so grateful because Mandalay was having a very beautiful dawning welcome to me. The sunrise, against the misty mountains with high palm trees was just incredible.And far in the distance, I could see clearly those white pagodas with golden spines everywhere, up on the top or at the foot, shimmering in the morning sunshine.It's Sagaing Hill by the Ayeyarwady River, with over 500 temples and pagodas and 6000 monks. Among the three ancient capitals around Mandalay, Sagaing Hill actually was only one not on my plan, but in the morning mist, the hill was just sacred.

When the bus stopped at a very old and dirty station, we sensed we were in Mandalay. There all at once gathered many local ricksaw drivers. When one of them held the name of my hostel,'Royal Guesthouse', I blindly followed him to his car. There when I was ready to open the month to negotiate the price, anothe driver led a European man up too. We exchanged smiles and greetings, I knew there he came with the same bus as me. He got on the bus almost the last minute so he and me, instead of me alone, only foreigners on the night bus.

He was Andrew, from UK. He totally controlled the situation when he heard out the driver's quota. I of course agreed to go with him as he knew a much cheaper way to get into the downtown from this outskirt station. And in fact, just out of the station, there parked a lot of pickups. Andrew could speak some Burmese and he made sure the direction and location where we should be dropped. Of course we didn't go immediately. We waited around 15 more minutes till the pickup was quite crowded. The rate was only 300 k, which was actually the only time in my whole trip I paid the same price as the local people. Thanks to Andrew. I was so lucky.

While we were waiting, we chatted a little bit. Of course we started by guessing our nationality. And when I corrected him by saying I'm Chinese, Andrew immediately began to speak Chinese to me, some basic words but in perfect accent. He told me he now worked in Chongqing for a NGO and this was his third time to visit Myanmar. He even had takes some meditation lessons at some temple.

He planed to stay at Nylon which was located about one minute's walk from my place, Royal. Nylon was 5 dollars but Royal only 3 dollar. He expressed he'd like to check out Royal first if it had some single room available. And on the pickup there were other Germans, who were going to a hotel around 10-12 dollars recommended by a local.

It took about 20 minutes to come into the downtown area;the first difference between here and Yangon was there were so many many motorcycles on the roads. There were very few nice new buildings. Royal was in prime location: on 25th str between 82nd and 83rd. Andrew didn't even hesitate a second for the direction, and yes, just half a minute's walk off the main street, we were there.

It was not a big hotel, but some pots of plants in the front made nice first impression. And we entered, I quickly was confirmed a room.( No wonder, I almost booked one month before.) But unfortunately there was no more single for Andrew. And there, the girl at the desk said:

We have a room available, with a very soft king size bed. Would you like it?

You mean, one bed?

Yes.

Andrew and I looked at each other a second and smiled the same time. I said,

'Maybe not. You know, we just met. Maybe tomorrow we might be more friendly.'
I felt so sorry for Andrew when I saw his back leaving with his big bags after we bid goodbye. This was a very real travel,I told myself, like what the Beatles sing, you say hello I say goodbye, but so quickly.

My name and my booking dates were written on their chalkboard. I explained the second day I would check out and then go to stay in Maymeo but come back for two more days. Then I checked out my room. Actually the room was very basic, one bed, clean but a little worn-out bedding, a table with a fan. That's it. The good value was the room rate, 3 dollars includes breakfast.

I took a shower and fell into a sound nap.

Day 3, on the way to Mandalay2

The bus stopped at a roadside food stand again around 11 pm for a second dinner. The night cold felt denser and denser. I searched all my bags my favourite lycra t-shirt, but in vain. I must have left it behind messed among white beddings when packing hurriedly.

Other side of the street a old woman and a girl were selling steamed corn. Looked clean to me.

' be lao lie?' ( how much). I asked the price.

'%^&.'

I pretended I understood and passed two hundred kyat for two corns,which was how much they were supposed to cost in Yangon. And when I rose and walked away 2 metres away, the old woman stopped me and then forced 40 kyat into my hands. I was so moved by their honesty and thanks them. And I gestured to them I wanted to make a phone call. She showed me a big restaurant a few metres away.

Of course there was no public telephone in the restaurant, but the boss kindly took out his own cell phone and helped dial the hotel number for me. It took seconds to get connected with poor singal quality. I screamed as loudly as I could to tell the receptionist not to throw the shirt away if they could find it in room 305.I asked the price for the phone call but found short of 50 kyat small notes. But the boss said kindly it was all right.

Out of the windows of my bus drove past about ten big vans carring about 200 young monks in robes( like relocating teams of soldiers) . I know there I was coming closer and closer to Mandalay,which is the educational center for Burmese Buddhism. Besides its buddhist cultures there, its kind and friendly people I 'd encountered on the way made me more and more looking forward to this city.

Day 3, on the way to Mandalay

On our pickup van were besides me, three foreigners and two locals, and huge backpacks and cargo boxes. Next to me the two Australian young boys in early 20s were excitedly talking about their girl friends and some very private lives,nonstop. On one hand I was a little embarrassed, but meanwhile felt a little jealous of their having a friend to travel with esp. at such boring moments, Me, another European one, and those two locals pretended not to be preoccupied by overhearing so we just turned our heads away to look out .

Modern buildings disappeared quickly into farmland,and villages. The wind were blowing the hays left from recent harvests and at roadsides were a few Buddha statues on raised platforms and pagodas,casted and then painted in white and golded colors. Even though I knew at Mandalay and Bagan, over thousands of temple,pagodas and monks were there waiting for me to explore, the sight of them still impressed me a sense of grandeur and lostness,especailly when against the setting sun and bunches of palm trees.

The van pulled into the station, which turned out more like a parking lot with different bus companies at their own parking section and operations.I felt kinda abandoned on the pickup when the other five were welcomed by their bus company and were ready to get off. Noticing my worries about where to go, the local woman kindly checked my ticket, and confirmed the location of my bus and asked the van to take there exactly( as it turned out of course) before she said goodbye.

The van drove forward for another 5 minutes and then took a left turn. I was gestured to get off in front of a big coach by a small room. Must be a waiting room .No bigger than about 60 sqm, it was half filled up already. The bus staff were in the middle left of the room behind a very small and old table. They asked for my name and passport to reconfirm my bus ticket. In Myanmar currently, like a couple of decades before in China, local people and foreigners pay prices in big difference. There were students, businessmen-like, monks in saffron robes around me quietly; Realizing I was the only foreigner there, I felt a bit lonely and helpless suddenly again.When I calmed down, I couldn't believe the chances,during this busy tourist season, quite a few bus companies,only me was chosed to put here. There were children beggars, vendors selling chips, newspaper, and drinks, monks begging donations,thanks buddha they didn't behave aggressive.

The bus was again, a second-hand Japanese coach, but obviously quite spacious, clean windows, with soft seats. Pretty good I was telling myself when I saw my neighbour. A local man in middle 20s, tall and strong. While we were sitting there, he said something in Burmese but I understood nothing. He couldn't speak English either but he tried to point his finger at his thick jacket and then my short-sleeve t-shirt. Now I knew it. He meant it's going to be cold. I thanked him and pointed to my bags on the shelves meaning that I did have warm clothes up there. Then came silence, awkward silence forever.

The sky became dark immediately around 5:30. Very few street lamps were on. So the dense trees seemed horrible sihousette to me now. The road was quite well paved. I felt tired and fell asleep quickly. When I woke up again by the cold, it was already about 2 hours later.I tried to find my long sleeve t shirt but in vain. I was thinking it over when I pulled my jacket on. But I was still with short pants.I was waken up also due to the music from poor speaker. The melody sounded sweet but the volume really hurt ed my ears. My young neighbour must love Karaoke much, he sang as other men on the bus.I hoped myself not too rude by turning on my ipod at his gaze.

It was a pure blackness out of window. Following only its headlights, the bus ran slowly but smoothly, which worked its magic on me as soon as I realized. The world, in both of my eyes and in my mind went black again.

Happy New Year

Happy New Year,
a very lucky and prosperous year
of 'gold pig' to you all!

paint the city red, but not much

As one English saying goes, 'to paint the city red', Chinese people are doing their best to paint red cities and the whole country to welcome the comin traditional New Year, a gold pig year on lunar calendar. Red, this happiest and luckiest color in this nation is showing everywhere, on lanterns outside and inside of stores and restaurants, papercuts for window decoration,dresses on men and women, old and young, and red envelops and presents.

Biologically, red is not a calming color but very irritating. I understand people around the festival are feeling the tense and strength, when faced with slow traffic and burdens to shop and give away presents, no matter how willing they are. So when it rained all night long along with lightings, I was hoping that it might save us mercily by washing away or at least diluting such over-reddness stress.

The rain was too late for my company, which, I am sure, suffers the worst. Why? Presents this year from the company were nothing more than: three Chair Mao's portrait-bearing money notes, two bottles of cooking oil, and two cases of fruits. The hysteric way was: it gave away twice, firstly two bottles of oil, secondly fruits on different dates. So poor us have to wait in the crowd for taxi to carry us and those bulky boxes of gifts back at the cost of double the taxi fare,and double waiting time. So who wouldn't believe that the company is not playing tricks on us ?

Day 3, travelers have different styles

After breakfast, it became hotter immediately. Since I had decided to save the 'Golden Pagoda' for the end of my trip to Myanmar when I 'd come back to Yangon at , I did no places of interest at all; but instead, walked around in the neighbouring alleys and markets, including a Chinese one, an Indian one and Aung Sun Market. Among these three, the Chinese one was to me the least interesting with its commodities similar to those at the cheapest markets back home.And the Indian one, centering around a Indian temple and the Indian communities nearby,was the most exotic. But neither of them was comparable to Aung Sun Market, the largest and most popular one attracted with thousands of visitors with its unlimited ranges of foods, fabrics, jewelries and handicrafts etc.

I walked in the midday heat of 35 degrees back to hotel so as to check out before 12. After a quick shower, I checked out and had one of my bags deposited till I come back. I also booked a economy room in advance although the hotel hesitated to take such a booking for a cheap economy type of room, perhaps concerning the possible changes with booking date. However,they agreed finally after I agreed to pay seven dollars as the deposit for the night Jan 6Th. I was so sure of this date if I survived Myanmar;because two nights later on Jan 9th, I was flying out to Bangkok.

Suddenly two girls stormed inside and almost bumped into me.I recognized them immediately after I took a second look. They were the other two Chinese girls I noticed but didn't chatted at Xiamen airport for the same Air Asia flight. We introduced to each other and were surprised to note that we were leaving for Mandalay on the same time in the afternoon, but by different bus company. They were now a little troubled by the fact they had just found out. According to their original plan, they would fly to Nepal, after Myanmar through Bangladesh, but since the flight was cancelled, the only alternatives they were to choose from were either they 'd fly through India, or fly from Mandalay to Kunming, China and then to Chengdu, further to Lhasa before a long drive by land to Kathmandu.

Their situation sounded so messed and so expensive to me, the extra time and money for the Indian visa( 60 dollars was the cost or a rip-off ,info from Indian embassy, where they just rushed back from) or three extra flights whose charges they were not so sure of yet . They were so definitely going there, as I could tell. Of course I didn't express clearly my opinion, which might turn them down badly. If I were honest, I would be more flexible and more economical.In their case, I would just think maybe Nepal and they were not ready for each other yet this time, why should they force to make it ? I just didn't have such a determination or style. Travellers do have different styles.

I waited and walked together with them to the ticket agents for a pick-up to the long distance station, which was one hour's drive out of the down town. Then at five we were to embark a 15-hour-long over-night drive, if we were on the lucky end.

Day 3, Legendary Strand Hotel

When in Singapore stay at the Raffles. The saying used to go. similarly, when you are in Yangon, the place to stay, if you can afford it ,is the Strand. Originally constructed by the Sarkies brothers, of Raffles fame, in 1896, the Strand was one of those glorious outposts of the British empire early in the 20th century. During WWII, it was forced to close, only to reopen in 1948 under the auspices of London's Steel Bro. Co.

Ne Win nationalised the property in 1963 and in its latter day socialist role .The strand became a run-down shadow of its former self,certainly no competition for the well kept likes of Raffles or the Oriental in Bangkok. Yet somehow, the old colonial era lived on at the Strand.

All of this changed again in 1991 when Dutch indonesian resort impresario Adriam Zecha and his company began spending US$ 36 million ot renovate the grande dame.

Our verdict:of the three major Sarkies hotel renovations in Southeast Asia, this one seems the most faithful to the original spirit.

Day 3, morning walk

Woke up very early around 6:30 in the morning. Had two hours' walk around before returning to the hotel for its free breakfast, and away for its heat. The route was:

City Hall- Sule Paya/Pagoda,
Church Immanuel Baptist Church,
Mahabandoola Garden Rd,
American Embassy on Merchant St,
Pier of Yangon River on Strand,
Strand rd(Myanmar Airways,Strand Hotel,Australia Embassy, UK Embassy, Main Post Office, Red Cross),
Morning market,
Walk back and across to Shwebontha St,
Indian community and Mosque,
Mahabandoola Rd, back to hotel.

Breakfast I enjoyed at the hotel was quite British and included fried egg, toast, coffee, fruits. The young owner happened to be there and shared with me his lots of albums when he was still a seaman. He was a very gentle man and our conversation started with smiles and his guessing my nationality. According to him, I look very Thai or Japanese.Although personally I think Thai people and Japanese are not alike in terms of facial features and behaviours at all, I was happy I bridged all the difference.

Chinese New Year around the corner

At sight of people walking with loads of shopping bags, I am afraid I am not feeling the excitement about the coming Chinese New Year unfortunately. And instead when I force myself part of these shopping rush, I become nervous and short of breath in the pushy-and-pushy shopping-maniac crowds. Meanwhile, a little sad too. One year's laboring hard work is only for those bags?

Had a farewell dinner with friends as usual; the happy atmosphere in the beginning was finally led to that bitter fact: we are all growing older, after this new year. To one of us, especially, Her birthday Feb 13 this year would be spent on the plane back home to Hainan. Double happiness or double pains. We decided to wish her in advance only a smooth flight instead of a happy birthday, since it was going to be a very sensitive age threshold.

Starbucks is so so busy; the escape becomes a cave now. Fortunately, I shared a table with a quiet girl who brought a magazine to read. And when we noticed we were reading the same magazine, we exchanged a smile. And again about half an hour later.

Waited a long time for a taxi back home. The female driver was semi-crazy almost, answering her call on her cell phone. ' Bad day. The traffic jam was damn. Damn. This is another disguising business. All today!'

To her this new year season may be disguising too, I guess.

Day 2, a serious chat and a serious escape 2

Another story which took place almost ruined my life here was:

I was walking aimlessly around the park when I noticed some local women in traditional costumes chatting and eating. In an effort not to disturb them, I took out my camera and started to shoot from a hidden angle. I never believed this would cause a lots of noises.

Right there when I was to press the shuttle, I heard many and many whistles across the street. What was happening? Surprised, I began to look back. It wasn't a military coup, I hope, like a recent one in Thailand.

It wasn't! But they were some soldiers, wearing guns and standing behind gasoline barrens and steels. They were pointed to me; and behind me a local young man walking past whispered rushily: don't take pictures. Go !

This made me so nervous and more. Meanwhile I nodded to those soldiers, thankfully for not shooting me. I walked faster and disappeared from the scene. Gasping my breath, I thanked for the local young man for warning me and inquiring the reason.

'They could kill you. It was American embassy!' he answered sharply, but couldn't explain more in his basic English about existence of rows and rows of gas barrens stationed in front there.

33rd is between the two busiest streets, Anawrahta rd and Mahabandoola rd; the neighboring alleys were all occupied by camera shops, film development stores, clothes stores and food markets. I didn't even dare to try the local foods. I only had one bbq corn ( on stick,200 kyat), one steamed corn( 100 kyat), and a cup of coffee from hotel as dinner before I went to bed. Just because I'd like to give my stomach some time to adapt it here too.

On that night, I had a dream; but only part I could recall, when I got up during the middle of night to turn off the over-freezing air-conditioner, were sounds of rains of bullets.

Day 2, a serious chat and a serious escape

While walking around I was approached by a few local money-exchangers offering higher rates than that in the hotel, roughly 1 dollar to 1300-1400, which made me feel so happy when back home in China, American dollars were losing interest from my countrymen, concerning that Chinese currency was appreciating much stronger against dollars. However, when I was to do it, I noticed another friend coming up and started the conversation like this:

'Hello!'

'Hello!' I replied with smiles.

'Wont fun?' he continued in some accent.

'Fun? What do you mean?' from curious me.

'..., $%^$%%^$%^&&&&&$%%.##$%^%&^*(((((((&^%'.

I got so confused by his words, definitely,although I could guess some business from him. I was still with smiles while keeping up my pace. This made my new friend more anxious. He was a man having a dark, very indian face and beard, in the traditional burmese costume, that is, he was wearing longji, a long sarong-style skirt wrapped around himeself of a long piece of fabric with a knot tied at the belly. Quite serious, wearing very subtle smiles, but his eyes were sharply focusing, as eagles and also, he was a little upset by my not understanding him.

'Fun!!!' he emphasized again, ' ##$%%^&&*&*(^$%^&^**(*, okay?'

'Sorry I don't understand you. I have to go. Bye!'

It seemed that he guessed my intention of leaving. In order not to lose me, he took some extremes to clarify himself in a very clear way.

He was starting to untie the knot when I saw and stopped.

' What are you doing?'

'@#$%$^^&^^^^^^^&%$%%$#, okay?' he paused his busy hands but pointed his right hand at his crotch.

It was very clear now. Fun with crotch, that 's all this serious conversation by the street was about.

I shook my head and said very clearly,

'No, I don't need. Bye.' this finally stopped him, although he was still murmuring some complaints behind.

To the north of Sule pagoda were some quite smart buildings, like Toshiba tower, Traders' hotel and Central Hotel. Five minutes further to its north, was the very old stadium and central train station, where people could easily find eight agents of different bus companies for their long-distance bus tickets to other tourist destinations, like cities of Mandalay, and Bagon.

All the names of bus companies, either public or private were given in Burmese; I had to stop one by one to check the name and their schedule, I was a little disappointed to find none of those recommended by Longly Planet there.Leo was already bankcrupt. The price ranged between 10,000-13,000. I,attracted by the saleswoman of an agent, paid 11000, for a ticket to Mandalay.( but later found out other foreigners paid 10000 only. 1000 extra for her smiles, maybe. Locals pay much less. I don't complain.)

And now it was dusk; there appeared more and more food stands on the sidewalks along the Mahabandoola park, just opposite to the city hall and the Sule. Bueses, mostly being Japanese as wars compensation from Japan to Myanmar after WII, running on the steets were so standing packed, crushing against other 200 people in the back while gripping during their rides.

Day 2, in Yangon

When I looked down from the plane window, Yangon was not so green as I had expected. Hardly when I began wondering if the trip to this country was a smart choice, the plane landed. Compared to the huge one in Bangkok, here were parking only three small planes; the terminal was only about 200 square metres, where we completed all the formalities, customs, immigration and luggage claim.

Picked up by the hotel 'Beautyland' , on the way to the city about 40 minutes long , I observed the streets around the airport were quite dusty and shabby; but when the car drove onto Pray rd, it became much greener and tidier. No wonder! Later I got to know Pray was the street with many ministries,emabassies, including the China's and some best villas in the country.

Its location was the big reason why I booked with beautyland 2. Located on a small alley 33th in the very city center, it was only one minute's walk to Sule Pagoda, the city hall, the Aung sun Market. The staff were friendly and the room was clean, air-conditioned attached with private washroom and hot-water. The charge was 15 dollars, with the free pick-up service.

After a quick shower, and exchanged some walk-around money at the front desk (2o dlloars, one dollar to 1150 kyat), I went out to explore.

Day 2, phrases of sleep

Tomorrow never comes!

And I felt like lost, was pushing the cart up and down, between 2nd and 3rd floors through those shops of luxury fashions, perfume, watches, books, handicrafts, restaurants, exchangers. Was I being in another fancy department store in Shanghai? Excited still, however, I needed a place for this long night.

The airport was pretty loose, allowing people lying down and sleeping for the nights, on the seats and on the floors too. What I envied the most was a cozy prayer room, designed for Muslims, now packed with people mostly asleep on colorful sheets of fabrics. I almost had the impetus to sneak inside,murmur sorts of prayers and then lie down bravely.

When I realized my heavy eyelids, it was already 1 am. I needed some sleep,I told myself. Later I concluded my long story about sleep could actually be divided into phrases, based on various locations and positions.

For the very first phrase, it occured at a small corner against a huge column. Since I was all by myself, I wouldn't risk losing everything on my first day of trip. My bags, now numbered four in total with one extra from my stupid thick down jacket and sweaters. I groped out a lock to tie the belts of three big ones onto the cart, then rest my feets on the lower part of the cart, bury the tiny one( with all my money, and passport and camera) between my legs. ( some idea about my position? Never expected my neck so soft but so long, like a crane!)Feeling more secure when I found out later, I was just opposite to an info desk. Satisfied,I lowered my head and rested it on my lap and quickly dozzed off.

I came to wake up suddenly for no clear reason, my neck so breaking numb. I tried hard to open my eyes, feeling like the weight of the whole airport on it. Nothing was wrong and metres away, originally full seats were vacanted now. I swiftly struggled there, with my numb legs. Putting one flatter bag on one of the seats( still locked together with the cart), I stretched out my short legs and lied down; under my jacket, I carried out my phrase two sleep, roughly for about 2-3 hours.

And when I was waken up again by some announcements about a early flight, I felt a little shameful and guilty for taking so much space. But around me, from a strange angle, nearly nobody, either 'floating in air' awake or asleep, seemed to care. Sleep is everything! Anyway, I sat up and swallowed down some peanuts and water, while two indians came over and filled up my leg seats. I stood up and walked away. Up on the third floors, the stores were still open but with few customers except the cafes and restaurants.

This airport was new, hardly for half a year old. Half of the structure was still empty,located on other side of the shopping area, were currently some lounges for airliners. Yes, lounges. I remembered some people posted on the internet about soft sofa seats with Thai airliner. And I was now at there! But definitely I was late a little bit. The playing grounds ( in the daytime) now were all occupied by families and children. But the cafe next there had some decent and noble seats available. I made a move, steadily but quickly. Different from the seats down there, those were soft sofas, I moved four of them around me and then encircled myself and my cart around. Warm and soft, I fell asleep very soon.

Vaguely there were more and more announcements, even this area was in the other side of structure. It was 6 in the morning; I felt much better. After the washroom, I decided to check about the counters for visa-upon-arrival, located on the left and right ends of the arrival lobby. In the morning they were not busy and for a while, I didn't see any Chinese applicants. Although the doubt about my own fate was not cleared, I decided to push it aside and not to worry about it now, after all it would be 23 days later, on Jan 9th I would be coming back here for visa.

The seats at the transit areas were almost full; but maybe it's was morning now, most people were becoming acting normal. Tired and sleepy still, people tried to rest on elbows or their companions' shoulders. I passed by the muslim prayer room and was hit by their comfort again. But when I walked back to my confort , sad to notice the cafe was starting to clean up for business. But closeby was lounge for Bangkok airway. Their vip room looked wonderful, only if I was allowed.Funny discovery was opposite to it there was a massage room with good business in early morning . How decadent! On those seats, those flat, metal kind, I watched a very beautifull sunrise out of windows with a group of British teenagers arguing loud about something or nothing. After they finally left, I slept again, only to wake up to find a Indian new parents cuddling and feeding their baby.

In our entire human life, the happiest part must be when we were babies, knowing nothing but love and care from parents. I thought, and lost in missing my parents.

Then came after, waiting...

...

some reading

...

walking around ...

...

Finally it was check-in time. With no difficulty, I got my boarding pass after showing the remarks to Bangkok airways staff, from her coworkers on my print of the itinerary the night before.

Then came another two hours' waiting,during which, I had some chat with a American professor who was flying to Myanmar for some arts and advertisement lectures. It was his third time he'd been there. He gave me some recommedations about hostels.

The plane we were boarding must belong to Phuket airways, the collabrator with Bangkok airways, because the craft was painted very colorfully with sealives, corals, palm trees and beaches. I guess within the next ten minutes after the takeoff, I sank into a sound and relaxed sleep, even among the wild laughters from my friendly neighbours, a thai lady at her American husband's smallest jokes. This was my phrase five sleep, the best one of course,because I was awaked to be offered the drinks and the lunch.

Myanmar I was really coming! Hope everything would go well, thank Buddha.

Day 2, welcome to Bangkok

airport.

After saying goodbye to my new friends, I began taking time to explore this huge new airport of Bangkok.( I was going to have 10 hours under its glass roof); but my top concern was to find the Bangkok airways counter first to check its possibility of transit to Yangon,Myanmar inside the arrival area.

The airport was really big but traveler-friendly, with quite a few information desks on each floor, without which, no doubt it must be the next minute for me to lose the directions. And transit counters of various airliners were located in two areas on arrival. When I got there after long walk(a good stretch-out after long flight,though), I got there almost at the end of their service time.

I explained my a little complicated case to them, and showed all booking itinerary and return email from their office,
Dear Bangkok Airways,

My name is ... and I booked and paid your flight on your web on 17th.( My booking reference no. is KSIVOX, from Bangkok to Yangon ).

However, when I came to your ticket office in Hangzhou, China to collect my ticket, I was told that, since the ticket was paid in Thai Baht on the net instead of Chinese currency, I couldn't collect the ticket from them. I am so CONFUSED. (The staff there were nice and patient,though). They also told me I had to arrive at your ticket office at Bangkok airport to get it, which I found too much trouble and not adequate time to do that between my connecting flights. And in your booking terms and conditions, you guarantee passengers can collect tickets from any closest offices.

So my question is :

1.Is it REALLY impossible for me to collect my ticket from this office Hangzhou, China?

2.And shall I have the paper ticket for check-in? Is the e-booking reference no. be accepted for check-in? And do you have the international transfer counter who can help me with this regard, as I don't need to go through passport check and visa formalities?
Their reply was:
According to your e-mail, we would like to inform you that you need to pick up the ticket in Bangkok as there is currency difference. Please note that you can pick up the ticket in transit area by contacting our transit desk in transit area. Then, they will arrange the paper ticket for you as we still implement only paper ticket for Yangon route.

They swiftly agreed I could check-in there if I didn't need any paper ticket,and then wrote some Thai words on my print of ticket and told me to return to the same counter, 2 hours earlier than the takeoff time.

So settled! I felt like celebrating. Before long I realized the next big task: to find somewhere and sleep the l o n g,l o n g night away.

Day 1, so risky

'It's so risky! ' said two girls from Shanghai, who I just met. They must have heard of my conversation with Air asia check-in staff.

When I showed my e-ticket itinerary to the counter, the girl checked it very carefully as well as my other tickets, like the other from Bangkok to Yangon, Myanmar,which would take off at noon time, next day; and she said to me she could not check me in, because: one, I don't have valid visa to Thailand, two, I don't have the return ticket back to China.

'But I can apply the visa-upon-arrival at the airport.'
'Theoretically, but in the morning same day, several Chinese were kicked back. And the visa policy of Thailand is always changeable towards Chinese people.Besides, you don't have the return flight ticket.'

While I was still debating, there came a supervisor. After hearing out her report, he said, if the outbound from Bangkok is within 12 hours from the incoming one to Bangkok,, he could check me in with this flight. But you have to apply for the visa and enter, and then depart.'

I thanked him but meanwhile questioning, only inside myself: do I really need a visa, since my next flight Bangkok airways does has a transit counter within the airport. Theoretically, I wouldn't need to go out the airport area, right? I would check this out soon at Bangkok airport.

After all, this little success almost moved me to tears, why do Chinese people have so much troubles traveling abroad? Then the two girls came up and agreed with the air asia. After brief chat, we all found out surprisingly, our program being so alike, including the cities to visit and days of stay in Myanmar and northern Thailand, although there was a little difference with the order of destinations to go.

So now with the boarding pass, tickets and passport, I stumbled to the customs and immigration check, which would be my last hurdle to cross.
The young officer taking my files checked carefully again and again and raised several questions. But in the end, he didn't stamp on my passport, instead, he called to another officer, possibly his supervisor. He came from three booth away and took me to a side bench and wait.

I saw him clicking on the computer for about two minutes, maybe checking my real identity in Zhejiang province (Xiamen is in Fujian province). Then he returned and gestured me to follow him back to the original booth. He murmured something to his man and walked away. I thanked him too, knowing definitely I was safe now.

Yes, I was safe. The man chopped a red stamp on my passport, which it took me a long time to locate later. I passed.
When I thought back, all that I experience must have been pretty new to the airliner and the customs and immigration. But if one tiny doubt cast, my plan would go doomed.In the lobby, while waiting for boarding, already about 9, I thanked god, and buddha so much in my heart.

The girls were very excited too for me. They played everything safe, getting everything ready in Shanghai. (yes, if I lived there, things would be much easier for me too. There is one Thailand embassy in Shanghai.) Typical of Shanghai girls, they immediately investigated my job, marriage status, and even the total amount of my travel funds. I tried to pretend to be generous when they asked my beautiful book cover, which actually became a token between three of us.

Air asia is free seating. On their very small red piece of people( 4 cm*1 cm), there was no seat number at all. The earlier you get aboard, the more choices you have. Resting behind the long line, I asked them, way ahead of me to find a seat together with them.
Among the hundred-odd passengers, they, me and another two girls( judged from their bags and outfits) were most probably, the only tourists.

I was almost the last one to get on the plane. It was much more spacious than Chunqiu; also I like their black leather seat cover; the Thai attendants, not so tall, but with good tan, wore red suit with low-cut white shirt underneaths . Looked great!

I saw the girls in the end. Smart enough, one taking a window, and the other, aisle one. Very few would like to squeeze in between right? So that one was all for me. Thank you.

Even though we all felt the night and sleepiness, we( maybe me) were so excited, we talked talked and talked for hours... quietly but pleasant. We exchanged our contacts when it was almost landing and wished we could meet somewhere during this trip, maybe in Myanmar, maybe in Thailand, if we were destined .

Yes we were!

Day 1,riots aboard

Surprisingly, the plane was new and clean, only if its seat arrangement being quite narrow for airbus 320. Mine was in front of emergence seats and I found out the space between was not wide enough, either.

We boarded the plane at 15:00, which was already late for 14:55 flight, and very quickly the plane was filled up. However it didn't take off , until one hour later. During this period, the attendants brought each people one bottle of water and magazines, then kept making announcements on the microphone that the plane was still waiting for the approval from control center.

To have such a permission for so long? The passengers began losing patience and rioted. Funny thing was attendants continued to explain the importance of such air traffic order, then hurriedly they pushed out the cart to sell foods and souvenirs. But easy to imagine, in such fury of waiting no one would spend any money.

All of sudden, one man in middle of forties, jumped up from seat, and shouted to the attendants. ' I will give you another half an hour. If you don't fly I will get off.' One boy came to him immediately and tried hard to comfort him. As returns, this man even swore foul words at him. The face of attendant flushed with anger, but he didn't say any word back. He left swiftly. A second later, over the mic, came another announcement mentioning the reason for this delay was a military practice in Xiamen, which effectively silenced the rebellious man. He sat down.
I felt a little sorry for the insulted young attendant. So when he pushed cart past me, I bought two bags of peanuts from him, which turned out my only food at Xiamen airport.

My original plan was, after I landed at Xiamen, I could take their airport shuttle bus to tour the island and city before I return for my transit flight of 20:30 to Bangkok. ( free for transit travelers). Due to the delay, I had to cancel it, but as a matter of fact, I felt so lucky and thankful about that the delay was not even worse. Because, when I collected my baggage after I landed was 6:00, exactly perfect timing for check-in for my next takeoff.

I didn't expect the biggest shock was awaiting ahead.