It was five thirty, after the girls completed their ceremonial makeup, and fetching hot water and when we walked out of Hotel Sakura. Cold and Quiet out there, fearing some dangerous animals hiding behind those blackness, we vaguely noticed some flash twinkling in the distance. ( People were climbing Poon Hill too.) And up in the black velvet sky, stars were as bright as diamonds, which reminded me one second one night in Burma, with brightest starry night like this.
starry starry skyWe hadn't known the flat area out of Hotel Sakura had quite many neighbors of guest houses too, out of which, we picked the nearest one the day before, after the exhausting walk.
But it was a nice pick though. And now out there ahead of us, our patient host shone the road ahead for us, while three of us with two dim flash struggling, to feel the way, and for our breath from time to time. The guide himself was with no light and kept following and waiting with us, with his thin jackets. Quickly we walked past horse gables, and began all the way up. With legs weighing heavier, air breathing heavier, our hands were cold and numb.
We were soon joined by others, who had much more professional equipment like headlights and sticks. And our conversations already started and stopped after short words like ' Namaste' and ' Hello', worried about missing any step and falling down. Step after step, we stopped more frequently halted for some breath.
Poon Hill we were climbing was 3193 meters above sea level, endowed with a panoramic view of Annapurna mountain ranges, on a clear day. So out of many hiking or trekking route, Poon Hill was the most popular short trek,for people with only three or four days' budget, while the long annapurna circuit Trek taking about 10-11 days. Other reasons for the area's popularity are numerous but topping the list is convenience too, in all terms of transportation, food and accommodation all the way.
And today, by my rough guess, between fifty-sixty people were working on it.
I managed to hasten and jump to the head of the group as we came to a small platform, considering the summit must be here. Only after shooting the mountain in twilight, with people still fighting their way up, nonstop, I came to realize that the real summit was further up there somewhere.
Annapurna mountains in twilightIt was another 20 minutes' breathless ascend, and when it was bright enough to realize I was there now, the sky brightened. What a scene! Under the mountain peaks, were an expanse of floating clouds sea.Excited, I dropped my stick and gloves to the ground, and raced to meet the excited mass there.
morning is dawningSoon, around 7 o'clock, both of my friends made to the top too, luckily in great time to observe this natural wonder unfolding in front. Holding our breathes, we awaited that every second to come, the sun light gently but warmly wakening those sleeping mountain peaks out of their dreams till in the end, the sun itself bravely ballooned to the surface of clouds sea and splashing its gold to the clouds and tops of Annapurna peaks.
rosy hue
gold rush,hereWith the sun higher, we began to walk down, only to find the grass covered in thick white frost. And then, the Japanese girl we met before, was climbing up with her guide and we nodded to them but felt so sorry for her. She had just missed something so beautiful. And suddenly terrified when I thought to myself that we could be late for it too, if we had followed the guide's time.
Back to our hotel, finishing packing, we had a nice simple breakfast before we thanked our hosts and wished them a happy New Year. And we started our another long day of trekking.
The up hill paths behind our hotel were the way to continue our trek further to Tadapani. Today's climb would be repetation of up hill and and down hill out of ranges of mountains. Only after first 15 minutes' walk, I was already out of my breath, and soon got passed by other climbers, who either carried their big backpacks or hired porters. Compared to those with heavy loads, our guide and porter did the most envious job to others, I think.
While the sun rising high, as we were ascending high, the view was even clearer and better, with occasional fog drifting over and thus covering everything. We took many pictures closely against Annapurna range and Fish tail. And A. and Y. surprisingly well and fine, kept chatting with trekkers on the way, in German, me mostly in smiles. We were quite overwhelmed by the fact over 70% we met on the way were Germans.
I was carrying my backpack myself. Slaving over each step, but acting comfortable wrapping my coat around my waist to save back weight and bag space, I began to hate that boy, for not even pretentious offering to carry. He was paid to do that! When, only once, he checked with me, 'Are you good?'
Quickly and directly, 'OK but not good!'
At lunchtime, when we were stepping down a hill, very tired and hungry. I immediately liked the first restaurant into our sight. It had a big courtyard, with many pots of flowers and chicken. But our guide was waiting for us thirty meters ahead. ( He did this once again!) He refused to return, but instead signaled us to move there. My friends, tolerant and easier going, convinced themselves but I, stubborn, insisted finishing my lunch here. While I was waiting for the food, I happened to read the back pages of the menu, indicating that all lodges and restaurants had fixed prices, and all helpful advice to keep the environment etc. After reuniting with my friends, we continued our trekking. When we came to Tadapani village around 3:30 pm, the fog over the valley grew thicker and Y. strongly suggested that, we, as our guide's original plan went, should stay here for this night. ( But actually, we suggest if possible, as another porter and guide do, stay at a next village between Tadapani and Ghandruk in order to make the last day shorter and finishing the trekking not too late.
I liked to cooperate, but agreed with Y. to avoid from the very beginning the guest house, where he was standing by again. With no explanation and checking with us, he liked to just take us there. After searching two guest houses, with good views, we were won over by one, with her very attractive prices, 50 rs for single, and 100 rs for a double room, and a western washroom close by.
Our boy followed us into this new place silently. It took some time for the housewife to bring us clean quilts. And while we walked out later after short rest in our rooms, seperated by thin wood walls, we observed that the guide kinda collapsed in a chair in the open courtyard. Worrying his thin jacket and cold temperature, we doubted if he was tired or sick? Or unhappy? And his answer to our concerns was cold. Guessing that he didn't have a room from this guest house, we talked with the owner who would offer one to him, free of our charges. He just accepted this news, seated with head buried in arms. But next time after we moved to the dinning room for their diary, while waiting long for the housewife to heat up under the dinner table, we happened to witness out of the window, with other local guides around a bonfire, he was happy again. Surely he must talk of us, for we saw a couple of his audience stand up and look into the room at us.
The room was soon (40 minutes at least) warmer, and, crowded. At dinner, on a large long table, heated from below, we had dinner together with: 6 Japanese group tourist, two Americans, and one single Korean girl. After the food and rest,I felt a little better, and persuaded myself to that cold room as early as 8 pm.
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